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14招教你快速识别衣服质量

担心买的衣服中看不中用?14招教你快速辨别衣服质量。

14招教你快速识别衣服质量

1. To quickly assess an item's quality, hold the fabric up to a bright light.
要快速判断一件衣服的质量,就拿起布料对着亮光

Here's an example of two different silk blouses held up against a strong light. "The thicker the material, the higher the quality," Debbie Roes — creator of the Recovering Shopaholic blog — told BuzzFeed.
比如就像这样把两件不同的真丝衬衫拿起来对着强光。“布料越密,质量越好”,《发现购物狂》博客的创建者戴比•罗埃斯对BuzzFeed网站说。
2. Do the "scrunch test" to see if clothes stay wrinkly.
看衣服是否容易褶皱,做“揉捏测试”

Ball part of the garment up in your fist, hold it for a few seconds, and then let it go. Does the fabric stay wrinkled or do the wrinkles come out quickly? If it can't stand being wrinkled for a few seconds in your hand, it's probably not going to withstand the test of time.
把衣服的一部分团起来捏在拳头里,坚持几秒钟再放开。布料皱了还是褶皱很快就抚平了?如果捏在手里几秒钟就皱了,那么它也不太可能经受得住时间的检验。

3. And for a quick quality check, do the "pull test."
迅速检查质量,做“拉力测试”

Gently tug on the fabric (this work especially well with a skirt or the bottom part of a dress) and then release it. Does the fabric retain its shape? Or does the material look altered?
轻轻地拉下布料(这尤其对裙子或衣服下摆特别有效),然后松开。布料还能恢复原来的形状吗?或者,布料看上去变形了吗?

4. When in doubt, shop in the men's department.
拿不准主意的时候,去男装部逛逛

"Super thin, gauzy tops are currently a trend in women's clothing," Roes said. "This trend also allows designers to spend less money on materials for their garments." If you're looking for a shirt that's NOT see-through, check out the men's sections for tees and oversized button-ups with higher quality. Also, since menswear offers fewer clothing patterns, their items tend to be less expensive than the women's equivalent.
“超薄、轻透的上衣目前是女装的流行趋势,”罗埃斯说。“借助这一趋势,设计师们在服装衣料上花的钱更少了。”如果你想找件看着不透的衬衫,去男装区看看有没有高质量的T恤或大码系扣衬衫吧。而且,因为男装供应的款式较少,他们的衣服比同等质量的女装便宜一点。

5. Avoid exposed zippers since they can be a sign of low quality.
不要买露出拉链的衣服,它们也许是质量低的标志

"Unless an exposed zipper is a design element, zippers should lie flat and be covered with a placket," said Roes. "And unless it's part of the design, the stitching holding the zipper in place should match the fabric."
“拉链应该平直服帖,被门襟遮住,除非暴露出来的拉链是一个设计元素,”罗埃斯说。“而且拉链的缝线应与布料相配,除非缝线是设计的一部分。”

6. Check to see if skirts and pants have decent hem allowances — especially if you're tall.
检查一下看看裙子和裤子是否留出足够的底摆边高——尤其是高个子

The hem allowance is the width between the hemline and the hem edge. If you're tall, you already know that this extra bit of fabric can be a life-saver when it comes to tailoring items to be a little longer. "Generally speaking, straight or pencil skirts made in a medium- to heavy-weight fabric can have 1-1/2-inch to 2-inch hem allowances," Roes said. "A-line skirts should have 1-½ inch hem allowance to reduce bulk."
底摆边高就是底边到折边的宽度。如果你是高个子,那么你已经知道这点多余的布料在送去给裁缝加长的时候简直是根救命稻草。“一般说来,由中厚布料制成的直筒裙或铅笔裙,底摆边高在1.5到2英寸,”罗埃斯说。“为了让下摆不显得臃肿,直筒裙底摆边高应该留1.5英寸。”


7. And keep in mind that well-made pants have French seams.
牢记,制作考究的裤子都有法式接缝

French seams are a favored seam-finishing technique for designers, Roes explained, since the raw edges of the fabric are hidden in a neat finished seam.
罗埃斯解释说,法式接缝是设计师们喜欢的一种缝制技术,因为布料的毛边可以隐藏在整齐的包边里。

8. Always check the care instructions label for natural fibers.
总是检查天然纤维服装的保养说明标签

"Natural fibers like silk, cotton, and wool stand up to wear and tear better than synthetic materials," Roes said.
“丝、棉、羊毛等天然纤维比人造纤维更耐穿耐磨,”罗埃斯说。
9. Make sure your pattern matches at the seams.
确保衣服图案在缝合处相匹配

Check the side seams of a shirt and around any pockets to instantly tell if quality is high or not. "Matching a plaid or horizontal stripe may mean using more fabric to cut out the individual pieces of the garment, which can drive up the cost," Roes said.
检查一下衬衫的侧缝线或任何口袋的周围,就能立即判断质量好不好。“如果格子或水平条纹能够匹配,说明剪裁单块衣料用了更多的布,这会让成本上升。”罗埃斯说。

10. You should also check the seams to make sure all of the thread matches.
你还应该检查接缝确保所有的走线都相匹配

"Quality top-stitching should be straight, in matching thread (unless the top-stitching is designed for contrast) and have a high number of stitches per inch," Rose said.
“高质量的间面线应该是笔直的,走线应该互相匹配(除非设计初衷是利用间面线来产生对比效果),且每英寸的针脚密度高,”罗埃思说。

11. You can almost always tell the quality of an item by the BUTTONS and the BUTTONHOLES.
你几乎总能通过纽扣和扣眼来判断衣服的质量

"Buttonholes should have tight stitching and a neat slot for the button to go into," Roes said. Touch the button and make sure it's tightly sewn on — and make sure there aren't a lot of threads sticking out.
“扣眼应该针脚密集,开缝整齐,这样纽扣才容易穿过去,”罗埃斯说。摸摸扣子看它缝得紧不紧,还要确保不要有太多伸出来的线头。

12. Gently pull the seams taut to see if there are gaps between the stitches.
轻轻拉下接缝看针脚间的间隔大不大

This quick trick can totally prevent you from wasting money on cheaply made clothes. "Better quality garments have more stitches per inch and thus have tighter seams, which means there's less of a chance to have the seam come apart," Roes said.
这招立马见效,可以彻底地阻止你在劣质衣服上浪费钱。“质量较好的衣服针脚更密,因此接缝更紧,也更不容易裂开,”罗埃斯说。

13. Linings are always a good sign.
内衬总能说明问题

"Well-made jackets have a taped edge holding lining to the jacket material," Roes said.
“制作精良的夹克都有一个带状包边把内衬缝在夹克里面,”罗埃斯说。

14. If you're trying to make sure an item is actually handmade, make sure the seam stitching isn't straight.
如果你要确认一件衣服是不是真正手工做出来的,就要验明接缝的针脚不是直的。

"Stitches made with a sewing machine will result in straight, flat stitches," according to Roes. If you're specifically looking for a handmade item in a thrift store, check to see if the stitches are on an angle or have a little flare.
据罗埃斯说,“缝纫机做的针脚是平直的。”如果你要特地在二手商店找件手工缝制的衣服,检查一下针脚走线是弯的还是直的。

Now get out there and shop smart.
现在,去做个精明的购物者吧。

Vocabulary

scrunch: 碾压
gauzy: 轻薄透明的
placket: 门襟
seam: 接缝
hem allowance: 底摆边高
taut: 拉紧的
lining: 衬里

英文来源:buzzfeed
译者:实习生孙美真
审校&编辑:丹妮


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